Leopard Gecko

A 36x18x18" enclosure is the current minimum recommendation for a single adult leopard gecko. The old standard of a 20-gallon tank is now considered inadequate by most experienced keepers and veterinarians. Larger enclosures allow for better thermal gradients and more enrichment opportunities, both of which are critical for long-term health.

The thermal gradient is essential: provide a warm hide with a belly-heat surface temperature of 88 to 92 degrees F on one end, and a cool hide at 72 to 76 degrees F on the other. Leopard geckos are thermoconformers - they regulate their body temperature by moving between warm and cool zones. Without a proper gradient, they cannot digest food efficiently or support immune function.

An under-tank heater (UTH) on a quality thermostat is the preferred heat source. Place it under one-third of the enclosure and verify temperatures with an infrared temperature gun, not a stick-on thermometer. Accurate temperature measurement is one of the most important aspects of leopard gecko husbandry.

A third hide - the moist hide - is critical for shedding. Fill a hide box with damp sphagnum moss and place it at the warm end. Leopard geckos will use it during pre-shed to soften their skin and ensure a complete, clean shed. Without a moist hide, stuck shed on toes and the tail tip is common and can become a serious welfare issue.

Low-output UVB lighting (T5 HO 5% or 6%, on a 10 to 12 hour cycle) is now recommended by the leading reptile veterinary community. While leopard geckos survived for decades without UVB, research shows they use and benefit from low-level exposure, particularly for calcium metabolism and circadian rhythm support.

Leopard geckos are strict insectivores - they eat live invertebrates exclusively. The core of a healthy diet includes dubia roaches, crickets, and black soldier fly larvae (BSFL/CalciWorms). Mealworms can be offered but should not be the primary feeder due to their high fat content and chitinous exoskeleton, which some geckos have difficulty digesting in large quantities.

Feed juveniles (under 4 to 6 months) daily, offering as many insects as they will eat in 15 minutes. Feed adults every other day, offering 2 to 6 insects depending on the gecko's size. Always use feeding tongs to avoid accidentally training the gecko to associate your fingers with food.

Gut-loading feeder insects is non-negotiable. Feed insects a nutritious diet (fresh vegetables, commercial gut-load powder) for 24 to 48 hours before offering them. A gut-loaded cricket is dramatically more nutritious than one kept on cardboard. The gecko's nutrition is only as good as what its prey was eating.

Dusting with calcium w/D3 is required at every feeding for juveniles and 2 to 3 times per week for adults. A reptile multivitamin should be added once per week. A small calcium dish placed inside the enclosure allows self-supplementation between feedings. Fresh, dechlorinated water in a shallow dish must always be available.

Provide a minimum of three hides: one at the warm end, one at the cool end, and the moist hide. Hides should be snug - leopard geckos feel secure when the hide walls touch their sides. An overly large hide does not provide the psychological security a snug one does.

Cork bark flats and pieces, slate tiles, and textured stone provide natural-feeling surfaces for walking, exploring, and thermoregulating. Leopard geckos investigate their entire enclosure and will benefit from varied textures and objects to explore and move around.

Leopard geckos are crepuscular, most active at dusk and dawn. The best time for interaction and feeding is in the evening. During the day, they typically rest in their hides. Disturbing them frequently during daylight hours causes unnecessary stress.

Handle regularly for taming, starting with 5-minute sessions and building to 10 to 20 minutes as the gecko becomes comfortable. Never handle during shed (you can identify pre-shed by a dull, grayish skin tone). Never handle within 48 hours of feeding. Most leopard geckos become quite relaxed and personable with consistent gentle handling.

Stuck shed is among the most common and preventable health problems. It most often affects the toes, tail tip, and eye caps. A properly maintained moist hide prevents most stuck shed. If shed remains after 24 hours, soak the gecko in shallow lukewarm water and gently remove with a damp cotton swab. Never force shed off dry - this can tear the underlying skin.

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) results from chronic calcium or vitamin D3 deficiency. Early signs include trembling limbs, difficulty walking, rubber jaw, and lethargy. Advanced MBD causes permanent skeletal deformities. Consistent supplementation and UVB exposure prevent it entirely.

Cryptosporidiosis (Crypto) is a parasitic infection caused by Cryptosporidium varanae. It causes severe weight loss despite normal or increased appetite. There is no reliable cure. It is highly contagious between geckos. Always quarantine new animals for 60 to 90 days in a separate room before any contact with existing geckos.

Obesity is common in adult leopard geckos fed primarily mealworms or waxworms. A plump tail is healthy; fat deposits around the neck and armpits are a sign of obesity. Feed a varied diet and avoid waxworms as more than an occasional treat. Annual fecal exams and wellness checks with a reptile vet are recommended - especially for any gecko that stops eating or shows behavioral changes.