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Savannah Monitor

Lizards

The powerful, intelligent monitor that needs serious space and a serious keeper!

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🤓 Did you know? Savannah monitors are built for digging. In the wild they may create burrows several feet deep to escape the African heat. A deep substrate is one of the most important enrichment features you can give them!

Savannah Monitor - Lizards

🗓️ The first week

The numbers a new owner needs in the first week, each from the article it links to. Rows with no link come from the encyclopedia.

Legal
Twelve jurisdictions restrict it, five as bans and seven as paperwork; the other 40 place no restriction. Louisiana names this species on its prohibited list.Legal guide →
Day one
Quarantine 3 to 6 months on plain paper towel away from other reptiles, with a vet check and fresh fecal sample within two weeks.Quarantine guide →
Where it came from
Most are wild-caught or farmed in bulk, so many arrive stressed and parasitized. A fecal exam for any new monitor, symptoms or not.Cost guide →
Enclosure
A hatchling starts around 36x24x20 inches; an adult needs 8 by 4 by 4 feet minimum, one per enclosure. The ready-made 8-foot PVC unit is 8x2x2, so adult housing is a DIY build.Setup guide →
Basking
A surface of 140 to 150F on an infrared thermometer, from a cluster of halogen floods on a thermostat. Cool side 75 to 85F, nights 70 to 75F. No ceramic emitters, colored bulbs, or heat mats as the main source.Setup guide →
Humidity and substrate
Around 50% ambient with a genuinely humid burrow, made by pouring water into one area of 12 to 24 inches or more of a soil, sand, and clay mix that holds a tunnel.Setup guide →
UVB
A 10 to 12% T5 HO over roughly half the enclosure, 14 to 16 inches from the basking area, with a 6500K daylight bulb. Around 11 hours in winter, 13 in summer.Setup guide →
Water basin
Large enough to submerge the whole body. A big dry enclosure with a small bowl is not adequate however large the footprint.Setup guide →
Diet
Gut-loaded insects as the staple: dubia, crickets, locusts, superworms, silkworms, crayfish. Lean mice, chicks, or fish occasionally and no more: rodents and fatty food fed often are the obesity that kills this species.Setup guide →
How often
Juveniles daily or every other day, adults two to three times a week. No published portion figure, so a rounded, heavy body shape means too rich, whatever the portion.Setup guide →
Supplements
Calcium on the insects, without D3 under UVB and with D3 without it, at a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of at least 2:1, plus a weekly multivitamin.Setup guide →
The thing that kills them
In the wild a lean, insect-based diet on a seasonal cycle; in captivity rich food year-round with a fraction of the movement. Obesity and fatty liver are the signature problem.Health guide →
Handling
From underneath, never from above, supporting the body and tail. Hissing, snapping, a puffed throat, standing on the hind limbs, or tail flicking means do not. Adult nail trims can take two or three people.Handling guide →
Feed with tongs
Food in and leftovers out with tongs: a hungry monitor mistakes fingers for prey. Wash hands after handling its food.Handling guide →
Adult size
3 to 4 feet and 8 to 15 pounds, with real teeth, claws, and tail.Handling guide →
Budget
$150 to $300 for a juvenile, $300 to $800 for an adult. Setup well past $500 and sometimes over $1,000, then $30 to $50 a month, and $50 to $100 for a routine exam.Cost guide →
Lifespan
10 to 15 years cited, 15 to 20 achievable, and many die in their early teens or younger from fatty liver, kidney failure, or gout, nearly all from overfeeding.Cost guide →
Hygiene
Wash hands with soap after any contact, and never clean the enclosure in a kitchen sink or a bathtub people use.Hygiene guide →

🚨 Emergency card

Call the vet now if you see any of these.

  • Soft or deformed bones, or a fracture
  • Labored breathing

Book a vet visit promptly for these.

  • A rounded, heavy body and reduced activity: obesity and fatty liver, corrected at home through diet and space, but advanced liver disease may not reverse
  • Any newly acquired monitor, symptoms or not: a fecal exam, since parasites are common in wild-caught and farmed animals

Workups for obesity, parasites, or bone disease run into the hundreds, and all three are common enough here to budget for. Body condition scoring beats eyeballing an animal you see daily.

🛒 What to buy

8x4x4 ft enclosure, realistically a DIY build or a direct order
Cluster of halogen flood bulbs
Thermostat for the basking cluster
Infrared thermometer for surface readings
T5 HO UVB in the 10 to 12% range
6500K daylight bulb
12 to 24+ inches of diggable soil, sand and clay mix
A humid hide and a way to wet one area of substrate
Water basin big enough for full submersion
Rock stacks, logs and varied terrain
Gut-loaded feeder insects
Calcium without D3, and a multivitamin
Feeding tongs
Extraction puzzle feeder
Clicker and target stick
An exotics vet who sees monitors

Prices and the reasoning behind each item are in How Much Does a Savannah Monitor Really Cost?.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

What size enclosure does a savannah monitor need?

A hatchling can start near 36x24x20 inches, but one adult needs 8 by 4 by 4 feet at minimum, which is the current welfare standard rather than excess. Floor space beats height for a ground-dweller, and it's one monitor to an enclosure.

How hot does a savannah monitor's basking spot need to be?

140 to 150F on the basking surface, read directly with an infrared thermometer rather than off an air temperature. Cool side 75 to 85F, nights 70 to 75F.

What and how often does a savannah monitor eat?

Gut-loaded insects as the staple, with lean mice, chicks or freshwater fish in the occasional column. Juveniles eat daily or every other day, adults two to three times a week. Dust with calcium and add a multivitamin weekly.