Chinchilla

A minimum 24x24x48 inch multi-level cage with solid platforms (never wire grates, which injure feet) is required. Chinchillas are extraordinary athletes - they can jump 6 feet vertically and need height for exercise. The more platforms at different levels, the better. Bar spacing should be 1 inch or less for adults, 1/2 inch for juveniles.

Temperature is critical. Chinchillas cannot tolerate heat above 75 to 80 degrees F. In North American summers, air conditioning is often necessary. They are comfortable at 60 to 72 degrees F and are far more cold-tolerant than heat-tolerant. A chinchilla in a warm room will show rapid, labored breathing - this is heat distress and an emergency.

Use fleece liners or paper-based bedding (Carefresh). Never use cedar or pine shavings (toxic aromatic oils). Provide a dedicated dust bath house (a plastic or ceramic container large enough for full body rolling) with chinchilla-specific dust (not sand) 2 to 3 times per week for 10 to 15 minutes. Dust baths are how chinchillas maintain their impossibly dense, silky fur.

Unlimited Timothy or orchard grass hay is the foundation of the chinchilla diet - it must be available at all times. Hay provides the indigestible fiber that keeps the chinchilla's continuously moving digestive tract functional and wears down continuously growing teeth. A chinchilla without constant hay access will develop life-threatening digestive impaction and dental overgrowth.

Supplement with high-quality chinchilla pellets: 1 to 2 tablespoons per day. Choose Timothy-based pellets without added seeds, dried fruit, or colorful pieces. Plain, uniform pellets are nutritionally correct. Avoid muesli-style mixed foods - chinchillas selectively eat the sugary pieces and leave the nutritious ones.

Treats must be minimal. Rose hips, dried herbs (chamomile, dandelion), small pieces of apple, or a raisin once per week are appropriate. Excessive sugar disrupts gut flora, causes obesity, and can precipitate life-threatening GI problems in this highly sensitive digestive system. Fresh water in a sipper bottle changed daily is essential.

A 12 to 14 inch solid-surface exercise wheel (not wire or mesh, which catches legs) is essential. Chinchillas are highly active and need vigorous nightly exercise. Without a wheel, they develop obesity, boredom stereotypies, and behavioral problems. Flying Saucer-style wheels work particularly well for chinchillas.

Provide platforms at multiple heights, wooden ledges, tunnels, cork bark tubes, and a variety of safe chew toys: apple wood, willow balls, rose hip pieces, and pumice blocks. Chinchillas need to gnaw continuously to maintain their constantly growing teeth, and providing appropriate gnawing material prevents them from destroying cage furniture.

Supervised out-of-cage playtime in a chinchilla-proofed room (no electrical cords, no small gaps to escape into, no toxic plants) is excellent enrichment. Chinchillas explore with spectacular energy - leaping, bounding, and investigating everything. Handle gently and consistently, allowing the chinchilla to approach voluntarily rather than being grabbed.

Heat stroke is the most acute and deadly risk for chinchillas. Above 75 to 80 degrees F, chinchillas begin to overheat rapidly. Signs include rapid breathing, drooling, and lethargy. Move to a cool area immediately and contact an exotic vet. Prevention through climate control (air conditioning in summer) is essential.

Dental disease (malocclusion and molar spurs) is extremely common in chinchillas and is the most common cause of weight loss and anorexia in middle-aged and older animals. Because the cheek teeth are far back in the mouth and not visible without sedation and magnification, dental disease is frequently discovered only when the chinchilla has already lost significant weight. Annual dental checks under anesthesia with an exotic vet are strongly recommended.

Fur ring - a constricting ring of fur around the penis in males - can develop during or after mating and causes serious tissue damage if not addressed promptly. Male owners should learn to check for fur ring monthly. GI stasis from insufficient hay is another serious risk. A chinchilla that has not produced droppings for 12 hours is an emergency.