Rabbit

Rabbits need far more space than most people expect. A minimum of 8 to 10 square feet of living space for a single rabbit, with at least 24 square feet of daily exercise space, is the current recommended standard. Many experienced rabbit owners and welfare organizations now advocate for free-roaming setups or very large enclosures, as rabbits confined to small hutches develop severe physical and psychological problems over time.

Use an exercise pen (X-pen), a large C&C condo, or a bunny-proofed room as the primary living space. Wire-bottom cages must be avoided entirely - wire floors cause pressure sores on the hocks (feet) that are painful, difficult to heal, and sometimes lead to serious infection. Always use solid flooring with appropriate soft bedding.

Provide a litter box with paper-based litter and a layer of hay on top, a cozy hideout or tunnel, and multiple safe chew toys. Rabbits have continuously growing teeth and must gnaw to keep them worn down. Apple wood sticks, willow balls, untreated wicker, and cardboard are all safe options.

Temperature should stay between 60 and 72 degrees F. Rabbits are sensitive to heat and can die of heatstroke above 85 degrees F. Keep them away from drafts, direct sunlight, and extreme temperatures.

Hay is the single most important food in a rabbit's diet and should make up 80 to 90% of everything they eat, with unlimited access at all times. Timothy, orchard grass, and meadow hay are the best choices for adult rabbits. Fresh hay stimulates the gut, wears down teeth naturally, and prevents the life-threatening condition GI stasis.

Supplement with high-quality pellets: 1/8 to 1/4 cup per day for most adult rabbits, scaled to body weight. Choose pellets with high fiber content and no added seeds, nuts, or colored pieces. Pellets are a supplement, not a replacement for hay.

Fresh leafy greens should be offered daily: 1 to 2 cups per 4 pounds of body weight. Excellent choices include romaine lettuce, cilantro, flat-leaf parsley, dandelion greens, arugula, and basil. Introduce new greens gradually to avoid digestive upset. Avoid iceberg lettuce (nutritionally empty) and excess spinach (high oxalates).

Treats like carrots, fruit, and commercial bunny treats should be limited to a thumbnail-sized piece a few times per week at most. These are high-sugar foods that can disrupt gut flora. Fresh water in a heavy ceramic bowl must always be available and changed daily.

Rabbits are intelligent, curious, and naturally active animals that need at minimum 3 to 4 hours of free-roaming time in a bunny-proofed space every day. Without adequate space and enrichment, rabbits develop behavioral problems including aggression, destructiveness, and depression.

Provide cardboard boxes with multiple holes cut in them, paper bags filled with hay for foraging, willow balls and tunnels, digging boxes filled with shredded paper, and puzzle feeders with pellets or herbs. Rotate enrichment items regularly to maintain interest. Rabbits are highly food-motivated and foraging enrichment is particularly effective at keeping them mentally engaged.

Rabbits are social animals and generally do best in bonded pairs or groups. A bonded pair provides constant companionship, play, and mutual grooming. Solo rabbits require more human interaction to compensate for the absence of a companion. Bonding takes patience with a slow, neutral-space introduction process, but the result is two dramatically happier animals.

Rabbits can be litter-trained much like cats. Place the litter box in the corner they naturally use and reward correct behavior. Most rabbits are fully litter-trained within a few weeks, making free-roaming setups practical and clean.

GI stasis is the most serious and common rabbit emergency. It occurs when the digestive tract slows down or stops completely, usually caused by stress, pain, low fiber intake, or dehydration. Signs include small or absent droppings, hunched posture, refusal to eat, and a distended or hard abdomen. GI stasis requires immediate veterinary attention. A rabbit that has not eaten or produced droppings for 12 hours is an emergency.

Dental disease is the second most common serious health problem. Rabbit teeth grow continuously and must be worn down through constant hay chewing. Without adequate hay, molars overgrow and cause pain, drooling, and weight loss. Annual veterinary dental exams are recommended for all rabbits.

Uterine cancer (uterine adenocarcinoma) affects the majority of unspayed female rabbits by age 4 to 5 and is one of the most preventable causes of early death in pet rabbits. Spaying is strongly recommended before 2 years of age. Neutering males reduces territorial behavior, spraying, and testicular cancer risk.

Flystrike (myiasis) occurs in warm months when flies lay eggs near the rabbit's hindquarters and maggots emerge. Check the hindquarters daily in summer. Annual wellness visits with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian are essential for all rabbits.