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Giant African Millipede

Invertebrates

The slow-motion recycler that turns a pile of leaves into garden soil!

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🤓 Did you know? Despite their name, millipedes do not have 1,000 legs. Most species have 40 to 400 legs. However, a species discovered in 2021 (Eumillipes persephone) was found 60 meters underground in Australia and has a record 1,306 legs, making it the only true millipede.

Giant African Millipede - Invertebrates

🗓️ The first week

The numbers a new owner needs in the first week, each from the article it links to. Rows with no link come from the encyclopedia.

Budget
$75 to $150 or more for the millipede, priced by scarcity rather than difficulty: a USDA import embargo means most stock is captive-bred. Setup another $75 to $150, then a few dollars a month. Vets are rarely needed.Cost guide →
Lifespan
5 to 7 years in the wild, up to 10 in captivity, a real multi-year commitment.Cost guide →
Adult size
10 to 15 inches (25 to 38 cm).
Legal, before you buy
Federally the species sits under the plant pest rules and the USDA PPQ 526 permit. Florida requires a state permit, Hawaii omits it from its approved lists, Oregon approves it with no permit, and DC and Montana leave it outside their permitted categories.Legal guide →
Enclosure
10 to 15 gallons minimum for one adult, with 36x18x18 inches or a 20 gallon long the common recommendation. Floor space over height, and a tight lid: they climb.Setup guide →
More than one
Communal and normal. They cluster even in a big enclosure; what limits a group is crowding. Isopods and springtails are fine as a cleanup crew in a display tank; leave them out of a breeding tank.Setup guide →
Temperature
72 to 80°F, usually room temperature. A low-wattage heat mat only if the room runs consistently cold.Setup guide →
Humidity
70 to 80%: a third of the substrate kept genuinely moist, misting once or twice daily, cross-ventilation against mold and mites, and a digital hygrometer.Setup guide →
Substrate is the diet
4 to 6 inches of pesticide-free topsoil and coconut fiber under decaying hardwood and oak, beech, or maple leaf litter, which is the staple food itself. No pine or cedar: the resins are toxic.Setup guide →
Produce and calcium
Cucumber, carrot, sweet potato, greens, and a little fruit every two to three days, out before it molds. A cuttlebone or calcium carbonate left in permanently; without it the shell softens and molts fail.Setup guide →
Water and light
A shallow dish with pebbles in it so nothing drowns. No lighting; they avoid bright light.Setup guide →
Handling, the real risk
It cannot bite or sting. The risk runs the other way: a brittle shell on a heavy body, and a fall from higher than its own body length onto a hard floor can crack it fatally. Over a soft surface near the ground, full body supported, and let it walk onto your hand.Handling guide →
The secretion
A curl into a spiral, then a brown or yellow fluid that stings skin and eyes and stains. Wash hands after every session; for eyes, irrigate with saline and get them examined.Handling guide →
A millipede that will not come up
It is molting underground, which can take several weeks. A buried millipede is not stressed by you yet; digging it up is how it becomes so.Handling guide →
Dehydration
The number one cause of death: shriveled, sluggish, with dry cracking segments. Manageable early by raising humidity, deep-moistening the substrate, and a water dish.Health guide →
A failed molt
Often fatal, from low humidity, poor nutrition, or disturbance. Never assist a molt or pull shed skin.Health guide →
Bug spray
Every household insecticide is designed to kill arthropods. Ant spray in the kitchen, a plug-in in the hallway, or a dog's flea treatment can kill a healthy animal overnight.Pesticide guide →
A power cut, and a trip
It lives at room temperature, so an outage is rarely an emergency. A full water dish, stable humidity, and a checked lid cover a short absence.Emergency plan →

🚨 Emergency card

Check humidity and the substrate first, then act on these today. Vets are rarely involved.

  • A shriveled, sluggish animal with dry, cracking segments: dehydration, the number one killer
  • A failed or incomplete molt, often fatal. Never assist a molt or pull shed skin
  • Frequent cleaning behavior, thrashing, or visible mite clusters near the head or legs
  • A major crack in the exoskeleton: isolate it in a clean, simple hospital enclosure
  • Dark lesions, which point to swampy, poorly ventilated substrate
  • A soft, weak-feeling exoskeleton outside a molt, which points to calcium deficiency

Low humidity drives the dehydration and failed molts; excess wetness with poor airflow drives the mites and lesions; falls cause the injuries. Balanced humidity is the key.

🛒 What to buy

A 20 gallon long tank, or a 40-gallon breeder tank or tub
Pesticide-free organic topsoil and coconut fiber for a 4 to 6 inch substrate
Decaying hardwood and hardwood leaf litter, oak or beech
Cuttlebone or crushed oyster shell, left in permanently
A digital thermometer and hygrometer
A fine mist spray bottle
Cork bark and hides
A small shallow water dish with a few pebbles in it
A secure, tightly fitting lid

Prices and the reasoning behind each item are in How Much Does a Giant Millipede Really Cost? (And a Supply Note Worth Knowing).

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

Why does a giant millipede cost more than other invertebrates?

Imports are under a USDA embargo, prompted by concerns about a potentially damaging mite species found on imported animals, and keeping one requires a plant pest permit. So the animals for sale in the US are captive-bred or older stock instead of fresh imports. Limited supply, not care difficulty, is what pushes the price up.

What size enclosure does a giant millipede need?

10 to 15 gallons is the floor for one adult, though many keepers go closer to 36x18x18 inches, about a 40-gallon, or a 20-gallon long. Floor space beats height for a ground-dweller, and the lid has to fit tightly.

What's the most common cause of death in giant millipedes?

Dehydration. Looks shriveled and sluggish, with dry, cracking segments along the body. Insufficient humidity or substrate that isn't holding moisture is behind it, and early on it's manageable: raise humidity, moisten the substrate more deeply, and add a shallow water dish.