Emperor Scorpion

A 10 to 20 gallon terrarium with a secure lid is suitable for 1 to 2 emperor scorpions. They are fossorial (burrowing) animals that need 4 to 6 inches of a moist substrate: a coconut fiber and organic topsoil mix holds burrows well. Provide cork bark slabs or flat stones as alternative hide/basking structures. Temperatures of 76 to 86 degrees F and high humidity (75 to 85%) are required. A small shallow water dish must always be present. These are tropical forest scorpions from West Africa and need warmth and moisture.

Emperor scorpions eat live insects. Crickets and dubia roaches form the most practical staple prey. Mealworms, superworms, and the occasional waxworm are acceptable supplements. Prey size should not exceed the scorpion's body length (excluding tail). Always offer prey with feeding tongs rather than by hand - a startled scorpion may sting a hand it encounters unexpectedly.

Adults eat every 7 to 14 days, reflecting their naturally slow metabolism. Juveniles need food more frequently, every 4 to 7 days. Remove any uneaten prey within 24 hours: crickets left in the enclosure overnight will stress or even bite the scorpion during molting.

Scorpions naturally fast for extended periods, especially in the weeks before molting. A scorpion that refuses food for 2 to 4 weeks is not ill - it is likely entering premolt. Do not attempt to force-feed or disturb a scorpion that is fasting and becoming increasingly sluggish. This is completely normal behavior.

Emperor scorpions are primarily nocturnal hunters. During the day they will remain inside their burrow or beneath cork bark. At night they emerge to hunt, burrow, and rearrange their environment. Watching this activity under dim red or UV light (which doesn't disrupt their cycle) is the primary enrichment the keeper enjoys.

A UV/black light is an extraordinary tool for observing emperor scorpions. They fluoresce a vivid blue-green color under UV light - the same chemical responsible for the fluorescence is present in moonlight wavelengths in the wild, and scorpions are believed to use this fluorescence to calibrate their light-sensing. Shining a UV light on the enclosure at night (from above) allows you to see exactly where the scorpion is without disturbing it.

Experienced keepers can handle emperor scorpions. They are one of the most mild-mannered scorpion species, but their large chelae (claws) can deliver a painful pinch and they will sting if cornered or dropped. The venom is described as similar to a bee sting - painful but not medically serious for most healthy adults. Avoid handling if allergic to insect stings. Never handle over hard floors.

Dehydration is the most common cause of health decline in emperor scorpions. Maintain the substrate moisture diligently: the lower layers should feel damp, not wet, while the upper layers can be slightly drier. Always keep a shallow water dish filled with dechlorinated water. Scorpions do drink.

Failed molts are the second major risk. The scorpion will burrow deeply before molting, emerge pale and soft (the old exoskeleton split and separated), and spend several days hardening. If humidity is insufficient, the molt can fail - the scorpion becomes trapped in its old exoskeleton and dies. Never disturb a scorpion during this process.

If housing multiple individuals, watch carefully for cannibalism. Emperor scorpions can cohabitate in groups, but males may be killed by females after mating. If breeding is not intended, house them individually or in proven female groups. Mite infestations (tiny white mites visible in the substrate) are addressed with a full substrate replacement.