Praying Mantis

Most pet mantis species (Ghost Mantis, Chinese Mantis, African Flower Mantis) need a small vertical enclosure. A tall deli cup (for nymphs) to a 12x12x18 inch mesh or acrylic enclosure (for adults) is appropriate. The rule of thumb is 3 times the mantis length in height and 2 times in width. Cross-ventilation is critical. Mantises molt hanging from the top of the enclosure so adequate height is non-negotiable. Provide a stick or branch angled from floor to ceiling for perching and molting. Temperature ranges from 72 to 95 degrees F depending on species. Most common pet species do well at 75 to 85 degrees F.

Mantises eat live prey exclusively. Match the prey size to the mantis: fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster, the small species) for early nymph stages, progressing to bottle flies, small crickets, and small dubia roaches as the mantis grows. Adult mantises can handle larger crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and bottle flies. Prey should never exceed the space between the mantis's eyes in width.

Feed every 2 to 3 days. Mantises will fast in the days before molting - do not offer prey during this time and remove any uneaten insects promptly. After molting, wait until the mantis's legs and mouthparts are fully hardened (several hours to a day) before offering food. Adult females require more frequent feeding than males and have significantly longer lifespans.

Prey variety is beneficial. Waxworms are high in fat and should be treats rather than staples. Bottle flies (blue or green bottle flies in pupae form, which you hatch at home) are one of the best feeders for many mantis species - appropriately sized, easy to culture, and eagerly taken.

Mantises are highly visual, active hunters that track and stalk prey with their distinctive head-turning behavior. Watching a mantis hunt - the slow, swaying approach followed by a lightning-fast strike - is one of the most captivating behaviors in the invertebrate hobby. The prey of the day (and the hunting sequence) is the primary enrichment.

Provide varied perching structures at different heights: branches, cork bark, artificial plants, and vertical surfaces. Mantises naturally vary their position throughout the day. Some docile species (Orchid Mantis, African Flower Mantis) can be gently handled - allow them to walk voluntarily from hand to hand. They may bite if startled or if fingers smell like prey.

Their "alien" compound eyes, remarkable camouflage, and astonishing hunting behaviors make mantises among the most visually engaging invertebrate pets. They are genuinely fascinating display animals.

Failed molts are the primary cause of mantis death in captivity. The mantis hangs upside down from the enclosure top to molt, pulling free of its old exoskeleton. If the enclosure is too short, too humid, too dry, or if the mantis is disturbed during this process, the molt fails and the mantis dies or is permanently injured. Always ensure adequate height (3 times the mantis length minimum) and an appropriate perch from which to hang.

Maintain appropriate humidity for the species by misting one side of the enclosure once daily. Dehydration causes failed molts. Overcrowding and cannibalism are serious risks - always house mantises individually, one per enclosure. Even a mantis kept alone for weeks has been known to cannibalize a newly housed enclosure mate.

Most pet mantis species have lifespans of 12 to 18 months. The hobby cycle for mantises is acquisition as a nymph, raising through multiple molts to adulthood, and a relatively short adult phase. Females live significantly longer than males.